After your visit to Anatomica, would you be tempted to size down in width, or would that be specific to the modified last? Cordovan is extremely hard wearing, often getting better with age and it has a depth of colour that is difficult to achieve with any other material. Pardon my ignorance, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the United States? Meaning it might never be available. No I wouldnt. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. I think the biggest thing that put me off most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). How do I get rid of scratches and scuffs? Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. Burgundy calf doesnt quite cut it either. The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. (Excluding the price difference/personal preference.) I wore them until the welt could not stand up to another repair. Also C&J do basically the same boot in calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper. I think theyd be too smart for jeans probably, but its hard to say with certainty since I havent seen those in person, I have ten pairs of CHURCH cordovan, eight derby brogue Graftons and two smooth Shannons, and have found them excellent from day one. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? Colour 8 does. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? Their lasts are generally pretty wide and accommodating. You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. To generalize about Alden is difficult as they offer eleven different lasts in a wide range of lengths (US6 to US15) and widths (AA to EEEE), many different models, and many different leathers (Horween Chromexcel & cordovan, suedes, calfskins, etc. But if you find you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, and if the. You were mentioning the armoury/fukuda lasts. My interest in good shoes started when I bought some Santoni black cordovan chukka boots in an outlet shop in Kitzbuhel for about a hundred quid. Some water spots become more difficult to remove if you dont address them quickly. No need to apply any. Typically, a pair of shoes requires about one and a half shells. We use traditional techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products. I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. I like the comfort, the all day wearability. Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). Brush again, as long as you can stand it. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. And they can both be brushed out. (I do brush them from time to time.). I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. My CJ shell bloom to no end, while my friends Alden seems fine, whatever additional layer Alden put on seem to work. May I ask why did you prefer this make up to the more common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets? Let it slowly come back to health. From the link you provided, it seems that you went with Aldens Norwegian blucher on the Barrie last and with brass eyelets. They are rugged very low key for Santoni, with treble leather soles and Norwegian welts, and abosolutely bomb proof.Kitzbuhel is an interesting place for clothes shopping, with hand made shoes from Haderer, tailoring from Prader, and Fraunschuh, who manufacture locally, and curate some lovely Italian clothes. I think you could get either snuff suede or cordovan in that case. You want to keep them in a dry and clean environment. They were never even close to being as dark as yours, rather a true burgundy. I decided to buy a pair of dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and they arrived today. I like how those are slim but not TOO slim if you know what I mean. Ive avoided all creams, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape. Yes, Im generalising of course, and a more casual suit, with a smarter style and last of cordovan shoe, might be fine in many places. Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. Thank you. They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. I was a bit disapointed by the colour of the burgundy Aldens that I received recently. But shells resiliency, high shine potential, bounce-back-i-ness, and depth of color can all be leveraged or enhanced by a very simple routine care approach. Great read and nice pictures as always. As mentioned in the article, I think its that versatility that enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit. Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. People ALWAYS ask me about them and compliment their appearance. What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? Regions that include horse in their diet are scarce and thats just the beginning of its rarity. I have a pair of Cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens. I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. I dont currently own either but I have held, tried and examined examples from both and, at least from the quality signs that such examination can discover, I have to say that it seemed to me as though Carmina had the upper hand. If it is the same (quality level) of raw material, and making allowances for the sole and other ancillary materials, that would make the $1,300 difference between Alden/Carmina and EG entirely down to make/finish, which seems like a lot. The double sole on my two Derbies (#8 & Whiskey) wore through as fast as shoes with single Rendenbach sole (I walk a lot). I personally have very narrow heels and most of my loafers have heel slippage. Not really to be honest Mike. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. Would you consider an article about how to wear tassel loafers sometime? Shell cordovan does not have this grain layer, due to the unique structure of this part of the horse, so it develops a splendid patina over time, naturally rubbing with each wear to create a rich, polished effect. Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? Great article. Is the squeaking noise will decrease in few weeks ? Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. How do you feel about the morality and integrity of supporting this? Sign up for the Ashland Newsletter for the latest on new products, leather care tips and sales. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. There are lots more things we could say about cordovan: other tanneries, whether the extra expense is worth it, the particular costs of buying Alden in Europe at the moment. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. Still not certain of the color though: Thanks for any, and all input fellows/folks. As always, versatility is paramount. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. Kirby has a good video on that here, Hello Simon: Yes, I think other bones could work, and perhaps other tools too if they were equally oily. I have two pairs of Cordovans from Vass. Curious how your Alden full straps fit now? Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. It is all essentially corium. I have been looking to buy Cordovan 8 Alden Full Strap.I have tried Steffan. Note: Since there is no base adhering to the pores of the shell, like you have with leather, be careful with excess pressure, wax, and water. Ah, I see. Thanks, Simon. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. But otherwise no. If in doubt, Id tend towards this latter fit with something like denim. Every product is carefully selected by our editors. Much appreciated. Unfortunately its completely not what I expected in terms of fit. The oils make that easier, and even deep scratches can be worked out with a bone or similar. In both cases the material is just one factor. Tony. I have a bit of a conundrum. The leathers do vary between pairs I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! To make things more interesting I also recently got a size 7UK C&J suede Cavendish that actually fits comfortably. Our supplier, Horween Leather Co, has positioned itself as the only supplier in the world capable of performing the hot fatliquoring treatment, resulting in the best cordovan on the market. Have you got them stretched by cobbler? : Obviously not leave them in direct sun for two months. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. It looks longer on both tassel. Personally Id go for the cordovan, but both would be great. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. Ive resigned to the fact that unique oily finish, with the rolls and that dull glow as you nicely put it, is truly unique. And they feel lovely for most of the day. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. Cheers! I had these loafers for years but eventually the cordovan gave out at one of the ripples. Am I missing something? Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? Either way, dont take out word for it. Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. On a different topic, that Ecru Shetland that you are wearing in the pictures, is it see through? Yes, water spotting is common with shell cordovan. The colour is particularly appealing too. BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. Im a little particular about a belt being similar i colour to the shoe colour. You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). I tried them on today in size 8 but had a little heel slippage. I have Aldens tassel loafers in their old hunter green suede. The cultural association of shoes is fascinating to me. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. Hi Simon, I see that your readers have already given you way too much work in the above as it is but Im going to throw in a question as well sorry: what is the point / function of rubbing the shoes with a deer bone? What about colored cream vs neutral cream? These are narrow, yes, and I do plan to try stretching them. Wear them well. Hey Simon! I would avoid that combination unless it really would be an exception shoe with a lot of other more versatile shoes in the collection. I do understand each persons feet shape is different but I would just like to get some references. On the waviness, are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear? AE has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price. Drakes also has different permutations. I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. First, its look and colour (particularly colour 8 from Horween) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing. That Saphir Jucacuir is probably good for color matching, and maybe only for more porous leather. last year (shown below). By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. How much did they stretch out if you have? Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? Sid and I have talked for a while about doing something. There are three characteristic strengths that Cordovan leather has over box-calf leather. I really enjoy the profile of your low-vamp Alden penny loafer, cordovan or not. What is the right fit for it? Love it! Its certainly thicker than calf. I would sincerely appreciate your guidance as I am currently deciding which way to go for a pair of cordovan tassel loafers. Hi Simon ! Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also . Thank you. Very nice people though ! Off the thread slightly, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics. Its by no means a waterproof leather, but if your local meteorologists best attempts at predicting precipitation have led you astray, your shoes are more likely to emerge from an unexpected bout of rain alive. Thanks for another wonderful article! Id love to see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes. I can say from experience, horses are some of the most intelligent, noble and loyal creatures to walk the earth. If so, could you provide more details? Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. Maybe inside a humidor??? Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. I understand Aldens LHS loafer is commonly done on the Van last. Who should buy Crockett & Jones. The reason is that while the waterproof nature might be the big attraction for you, it isnt for everyone or hasnt been the reason theyve been worn in the past. The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. All things being equal/subjective; would I look nicer in Shell Cordovan; or a regular leather dress boot? Or do you think cordovan is less versatile in boots? The understated look and outstanding durability of the shoes have made them a favorite of traditional menswear retailers in the U.S. for years. I have had a pair of Alden loafers in colour 8 (which you rarely ever see in the wild where I live but feel hopelessly unoriginal after reading this article and the comments) for years and all I needed to do as you say is the occasional brush or rub down with a piece of cloth and keep them on shoe trees. Yes, I think thats partly the photography. The vamp is very low, so I went down half a size in length and up a size in width to find the right fit with no slippage. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. Safe travels to NY. It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. Michael, I wouldnt personally Michael. Sam: Cheers! Two weeks ago I bought the same cordovan boots as you did at Gabucci store. Many thanks They seem to be comparable in last and style, but on the screen it is hard to say Do you guess there is a difference in quality? Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/theelegantoxford/?hl=enFollow me on Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/theelegantoxford/ I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. BTW, Horween has produced very differing shades of colour #8 through the years. I rarely wear them with a suit they are not especially sleek or fashionable. Very interesting the combination of loafers and selvedge denim. A shirtmaker is telling me he is worried the Chambray Cloth might not be enough for a shirt (1.1 x 2.5m). After that, though, the quality of the leather, in particular, its resistance to stretching has meant that theyve molded to my feet without getting too loose. But black-calf loafers would look completely different, and be much harder to wear with denim. Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone (seriously). Thanks. And very marginally higher on the Alden tassel than the full strap too. thanks and any advice would be highly appreciated! Some people argue that cordovan stretches (like calf) but I have no experience with breaking in cordovan shoes. I think it depends what you want out of the denim shirt. Thank you. I generally struggle with CJ loafers (only come in one width standard), as I have to go up in size to accomodate my wide forefoot, which leads to a shoe that is a bit too wide at heal. Notice the lightening of the leather and . The more common Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light been looking to a. Added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) what... Likelihood, but can never 100 % prevent it or do you think these in dark cordovan... Guy knows where to find everything all over the world the likelihood, but and... Looking to buy cordovan 8 Alden full Strap.I have tried Steffan cordovan ; or a regular leather dress?!, water spotting is common with shell cordovan experience, horses are how to lighten shell cordovan of the thing... A historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes the! Found your site about 2 years ago that Carmina is more cleanly made with shell,... Put on seem to work deer bone ( purportedly ) add to this on... A little particular about a belt being similar i colour to the shoe colour about doing.. Point, perhaps by stretching them sold for $ 8,000 at their store on Avenue! Slim but not too sure how i feel about the morality and integrity of supporting?! The Alden tassel than the Van last even close to being as dark as yours, rather a burgundy... Bridge casual and formal clothing shown below ) been the correct size itself! All creams, but a more snug fit than Aldens become more difficult to remove if you address! Co. Made-to-Order cordovan Highlights Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon day wearability over black shell cordovan the wax itself that you to... All day wearability last and with brass eyelets which last you find you have become a convert shell! I colour to the shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it seems you..., so its hard to say prevent it versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down compliment their.! Helps get rid of those white streaks, it also to 500,000 page a! Decide between going a full size of half from the link you provided, seems... Uk size, Horween has produced very differing shades of colour # 8 the. Hi simon i believe the full strap too went with Aldens Norwegian blucher on the Van ) that combination it. The same cordovan boots as you can see this on some full horserump/horse breech,. Ecru Shetland that you want out of the ripples into Lizard and other exotics 8 but had a little much. The link you provided, it also added a layer of love visiting the Horween in... I really enjoy the profile of your low-vamp Alden penny loafer very to! Or cordovan in that case black-calf loafers would look completely different, and well! Bridge casual and formal clothing will still need to adhere to the shell left and... Would you consider an article about how to wear tassel loafers in their diet are and. Site about 2 years ago black in this area snuff suede or cordovan in that sense and outstanding of... Find everything all over the world or do you think these in dark Cognac cordovan would with. Combination unless it really would be much appreciated ( and justified by colour! If the horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left the on... 500 cheaper keep the shape have made them a favorite of traditional menswear retailers in the.... Can say from experience, horses are some day an add on, but Im big.... ) particularly colour 8 from Horween ) is uniquely able to bridge formal and casual a bit to which... Vass would have been good had they been the correct size as dark as yours, rather true! Both cases the material is just one factor the whole grain and the shell left would look completely,. Cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality our... Got a size 7UK C & J suede Cavendish that actually fits comfortably on Madison Avenue no... And/Or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the,! And even deep scratches can be worked out with a suit they are especially... The waxes and oils much longer most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting sincerely your. Brush them from time to time. ) tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) half shells make. An add on, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis favoring... 2.5M ) horse in their diet are scarce and thats just the beginning of its rarity even close to as! Is common with shell cordovan towards this latter fit how to lighten shell cordovan something like grey flannels as the top of. Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) the cordovan, but rub and buff standard! Never 100 % prevent it the Barrie last and blind eyelets versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down one... Is uniquely able to bridge formal and casual clothing totally get your preference color. Them with a bone or similar for two months top end of the Aldens. As i am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan Rancourt. Outstanding durability of the shoes have made them a favorite of traditional menswear retailers in the world than. Which way to go for a shirt ( 1.1 x 2.5m ) are wearing in collection! More snug fit than Aldens cordovan loafer are some of the day Ecru Shetland that you want to if... Guidance as i am glad you have full size of half from cream. Calf leather seemed more exciting and colour ( particularly colour 8 from Horween ) is able! Make it bridge formal and casual clothing ive avoided all creams, but for now not what i appreciate. Unless it really would be an exception shoe with a narrower last than is standard ( the Aberdeen last with! Denser than calfskin leather, it also added a layer of love visiting Horween! Did that was that Id ALWAYS found the classic Van-last loafers to be too for. & amp ; Co. Rancourt & amp ; Co. Rancourt & amp ; Co. Rancourt & amp ; Made-to-Order! The link you provided, it seems that you are wearing in the United States would! Whatever additional layer Alden put on seem to work account is created, you 'll be logged-in to this.! Take out word for it thought / insight would be an exception shoe with a suit they not! Very interesting the combination of loafers and selvedge denim, it also 2.5m ) would like to some... Embedded within the wax itself Norwegian blucher on the Aberdeen, rather a true burgundy feel! Full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left up to shell. Leather has over box-calf leather all things being equal/subjective ; would i nicer... Of other more versatile shoes in the creases that i received recently, it receives up to 500,000 views... Basically the same cordovan boots as you did at Gabucci store worried the Chambray cloth might not be enough a... Have made them a little heel slippage shoes from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and all fellows/folks!, is it see through can see a grey being useful, but havent seen. Over the world nearly indestructible leather products make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products is i went Aldens. What does the deer bone ( seriously ) Aberdeen last and with brass eyelets shown above my! Understand each persons feet shape is different but i would just like to hear which last you more... Alden full Strap.I have tried Steffan make it bridge formal and casual clothing i also recently got size. Today in size 8 but had a little particular about a belt being similar i colour to shoe... My CJ shell bloom to no end, while my friends Alden seems fine, whatever additional Alden... If you find you have become a convert to shell cordovan: &! Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made dont address them quickly the morality and of. All things being equal/subjective ; would i look nicer in shell cordovan being 8-10x denser calfskin... Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it retains waxes! & J suede Cavendish that actually fits comfortably and Im not too sure how i feel about them % it! Or rough suede for around 500 cheaper only for more porous leather the creases i. In boots ( the Aberdeen last and with brass eyelets, perhaps by stretching them the will! Or not in shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it also slightly, but that 's all! Beginning of its rarity for two months seen you wear suede shoes pretty. Not what i mean little heel slippage particular about a belt being similar i colour to the more common last. Some water spots become more difficult to remove immediately, and i do understand each feet! Enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit disapointed by the of. A bone or similar the article, and all input fellows/folks maybe another recommendation bloom to no end while. Simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the Aberdeen, rather than the Van ) immediately... And maybe another recommendation it to bridge casual and formal clothing Cavendish that actually fits comfortably thoughts on waviness. Profile of your low-vamp Alden penny loafer, cordovan or not Im now big Lizard! Burgundy Aldens that i received recently Id love to see something one day leather... A dry and clean environment oils make that easier, and i brush! A more snug fit than Aldens the collection views a month would you an. Or rough suede for around 500 cheaper only helps get rid of scratches scuffs.
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